Everything Indian with a firangi twist
Why The Bombay Canteen- Modern Indian is one fancy term, which I
believe even the Shiv Sagars of the world will start using soon, albeit
understanding the same or not. But The Bombay Canteen aims at creating ‘fusion’ and does it successfully so. Be it presenting tacos
made of theplas, or multi grain khichdi, or serving starters in the forgotten
pattals (leaf plates), everything is
downright desi, with a subtle firangi twist.
Frankly, a restaurant opens in Mumbai every fortnight but not
many create a stir and a haul as anticipatory as The Bombay Canteen, which
recently opened in Kamla Mills, Lower Parel,
Mumbai. Opened by a New York returned chef Floyd
Cardoz and Thomas Zacharias, the simplicity and intricate ‘Indian-ness’ of it all,
comforted us as we dug into our delicious staple food.
The Menu resembles registers we scribbled on, commencing our tryst with everything Indian, as we
observe buzzing tables and bar stools on a Tuesday evening. We spot Rahul Akerkar (Indigo) being ushered in, as perch ourselves atop their high chairs and browse
through their crisp, intrinsic Indian menu. Kept interesting and intriguing, the menu is not a barrage of endless pages, with overbearingly ‘creative’ dishes, seen at most restaurants, which just seem to try too hard.
The
Indian-ness
The dishes aren’t of
course your usual butter chicken and dal makhani, as the chef took an Indian
road trip to discover dishes that define India,
right from a Mallu drumstick soup to a Tamil kuthu roti, street dishes, from
the interiors of India have
been thrust under the spotlight of the South Bombay
fine dining scene. A first, which is
barely scene at any Indian restaurant, you are served from an assortment of chintus,
more like farsan or chaknas, which are priced at Rs 40, while you wait for the
main course. The multigrain khichdi comes with the masaal daan (spice-box) carrying
an assortment of pickles, chutney, onions, etc. followed by the must try-Arugula salad. Paneer bhurji comes with pao, a Parsi typical, nudging me to
stop writing and dig into this creative play of simple dishes. The food is
exactly ‘ghar-ka-khana’, as we try dish after dish without feeling heavy or
bloated.
The
Bombay-ness
At this India inspired
café, the décor is a lot like old Bombay buildings and
hospitals, with stained glass windows and different mosaic flooring.
Fact File
Where- Kamala Mills, Lower Parel, Mumbai
Cost for Two- Rs 1500, excluding alcohol and taxes
Must try- Mallu drumstick soup, Kuthu roti, Paneer bhurji, Gulab Nut
Dress code- Smart casuals
Text- Avni Mehrotra; Pictures: The Bombay Canteen
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