I hail from a
family of zamindars. We have faujis, doctors and engineers in our family.
The idea to become a chef triggered from the quest to do something that wasn’t
in the family. I connected to food during these frequent trips to old Lucknow to binge on
kebabs. There was this fantastic kebab waala named Munir Ahmed, from whom I resolved to learn making kebabs. When I was 16, I left
home and stayed with him. Initially my parents brushed this aside as ‘just
another thing’ but since I sincerely pursued it for 6 months, they gave in to
my desire to do hotel management. My first job was in Taj Mansingh Delhi as a
management trainee where I renovated Machan, Kafe Fontana and Ricks. I later
joined Oberoi but my big break came when I opened the Radisson, Noida as an
executive chef. Later, some of my friends were opening a restaurant in Boston, so I quit and
left everything. We opened a restaurant called BanQ, but since the economy was
dwindling, things didn’t work out and I joined another company in Boston. I came back to
Indian eventually, since my dad wasn’t keeping that well, and then Novotel and
TV happened. Having worked at so many places, in India and abroad, gradually this
skepticism got over and I realised that ultimately it’s food and the taste that
matters, whether you make it on the street or in a hotel.
What are the dining
trends that you see in India?
In India, the
average dining out frequency has increased, and so have expectations from
restaurants. The biggest food trend that I see coming in is detailed cuisine.
Earlier we said 'Chalo Marathi khana khate hain,' but now it’s
Konkani, Kolhapuri and regionally more detailed. People are going deeper into
their own food, that’s a trend that I hope stays because there’s a lot that we
have to offer. Kerala alone has more than 1 lakh recipes. Another trend is the
Izakaya trend. These ‘small eats’, ‘quick drinks’, get-out-of-office’
chains. This trend is here to stay and restaurants like Mamagoto are only doing
it well. Get out of the office, grab a drink and a bite, meet someone and then
go home. In terms of techniques we have incorporated everything that the west
has; even food styling is a big hit. All chefs should be artists, as food is an
expression. Leverage for a chef to get crazy is a lot more than it was earlier.
It allows chefs to play around and experiment.
Where do you see
Indian food globally?
You go to any
country, and right after the country’s own cuisine, there 3 cuisines which are
really there—Chinese, Italian and Indian. They are just there; people want them
and appreciate them. And our cuisine will only go higher from there.
Tell us about your
first kitchen experience
My first kitchen
experience was drying charcoal and grinding spices in Munir Ustad’s house.
That’s all I did when I started.
Who have been your
major influences?
Ferran Adria. He
started the revolution which everyone, all over the world, are trying to do in
their own little way. Look at the greatness of the guy that people who even
worked with him for just 2 months now feature in the top 20 restaurants of the
world. Another person I admire is Ken Oringer. I dined a lot at his restaurant
in Boston.
During my formative
years, Chef Munir Ustad, Chef Nita Nagaraj, (Taj) and Chef Varun Tyagi, were
very influential in my career.
Which city do you
think knows its food—Indian and abroad?
From my
travels, in India,
I believe it is Kolkata. There’s one thing called liking your food but in terms
of knowing about it, it’s Kolkata. Abroad, I would say New Orelans, Louisana, USA.
Whoever you meet there is so passionate about jazz and food. Even Chicago for that matter.
What is your
philosophy on food?
My philosophy is
that food transfers feelings, so you cannot be mechanical with food. That’s why
everyone uses the same ingredients and still makes something taste completely
different. That’s why I tell chefs that whenever you get into the kitchen just
get into your happy mode. Two things are very important, it is very important
to feel a sense of respect and a sense of love, when you are
cooking. Travelling for a chef is very important, too.
Do you
remember your biggest kitchen disaster?
We had an outdoor
event in Delhi
and while wrapping up, someone poured chashni (sugar syrup) in oil.
We came back and nonchalantly used that oil to cook and the entire place went
black. Eventually we smelled burnt sugar and realised what had happened, but
the damage had been done by then!
Quick Bytes
Your 2 minute
recipe- Hing jeera aaloo. Boiled potatoes are always there and I
just toss them with a hing-jeera tadka.
First meal you
cooked- I cooked rajma, as my mom wasn’t well. I gave it to my dad, who
appreciated it, but slyly never told me.
Your comfort food- Mushroom
risotto
Your last meal
would be- A good risotto two seared scallops on the side, that's it!
Favourite cuisine- Lucknawi
Who cooks
better, you or the wife- Obviously the wife! I want to eat at home, right?
Favourite street
food- Ulte tawe ka paratha and galouti kebab
Cities you love
eating at- New York, Chicago
and Boston for
nostalgia. London, Singapore,
Delhi, Bangalore,
Kerala and the whole Kochi
belt, I am just obsessed with the food there!
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While
the process is typical to Japanese dishes, Hokey Pokey brings the same to ice
cream. Basically, you take a cold stone slab, whose temperate is fixed at -18
degree Celsius and place an ice cream of your choice along with an assortment
of ingredients. Some mixing and chopping later, you have created your own flavour
(with quirky chocolate designs on top, if you ask for it!) Plus with so much
action behind the counter, the entire experience was a delight to witness. 
